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Saunterings: Walking in North-West England
Saunterings is a set of reflections based upon walks around the counties of Cumbria, Lancashire and
North Yorkshire in North-West England
(as defined in the Preamble).
Here is a list of all Saunterings so far.
If you'd like to give a comment, correction or update (all are very welcome) or to
be notified by email when a new item is posted - please send an email to johnselfdrakkar@gmail.com.
232. The Scotch Argus of Smardale
Scotch Argus butterflies are common in Scotland, where they naturally belong, but some of
them have had the temerity to settle south of the border. But only a few. Several
websites state that the Scotch Argus may be seen at only two locations in England, Arnside
Knott and Smardale. This consensus does not confirm the truth of the statement since many
websites have probably just copied from another [1]. All I can say is that I have seen
Scotch Argus at only one place in England, that is, Smardale, a valley to the north of
Ravenstonedale between Tebay and Kirkby Stephen.
Right: Scotch Argus (photo taken in 2011).
However, that was fourteen years ago. It seemed time to return to see if the
Scotch Argus are still there. Before setting off we watched a dozen or more butterflies
cavorting in the morning sunshine on the garden buddleia, which seemed a good omen. The
forecast was for light cloud and sunny periods. We recalled that on the previous visit
the Scotch Argus flew about gaily, looking quite black in flight, when the sun was shining
but as soon as a cloud went in front of the sun they settled down in the grass as if a
switch had been turned off. We hoped for a repeat performance.
As we neared the Howgills we could see grey cloud ahead, sitting on the hill tops.
From Newbiggin-on-Lune we walked north past Brownber Hall of the hamlet of Brownber,
where the last woman to be burned at the stake
in England (Elizabeth Gaunt in 1685) lived, and on to join
the old Tebay – Kirkby Stephen railway line, now part of the Smardale Nature Reserve.
There were a good number of wild flowers beside the track but, under the grey skies, we
saw only one butterfly and that was not a Scotch Argus.
We crossed Smardale Bridge, the old packhorse bridge over Scandal Beck. This beck is running north to eventually join the River Eden whereas our starting point, Newbiggin-on-Lune, is obviously on the River Lune, running west, so somewhere along the way we had passed an unnoticeable watershed. We had intended to walk directly to the Smardalegill Viaduct, where we had seen most of the Scotch Argus last time, and then return over Smardale Fell to the east but everywhere was still under grey cloud so we decided to do it the other way about, to give the sun more time to turn up.
Smardale Bridge (my camera has lightened this scene: there was no
hint of sunshine in the grey cloud)
It was easy walking (on part of the Coast-to-Coast route, with super-duper new signposts
complete with A. Wainwright’s initials) but there were spots of moisture in the air and
perhaps too much breeze for a butterfly’s liking. Ruth tried to convince me that there
was a tinge of blue in the grey cloud and even a touch of sunshine on some distant fells,
but didn’t succeed. Anyway, we carried on, under the Settle-Carlisle railway line bridge,
through the small village of Smardale, passing the II* listed Smardale Hall, and then
joined the old railway track again, to walk south.
On the previous occasion we had seen a few Scotch Argus along this track but
this time, nothing. Our hopes were further lowered by two men, who had the gear of
serious lepidopterists, complaining about the forecast of sunny periods being wrong,
meaning that they had seen no Scotch Argus in the air and only a few in the grass.
The strange thing about this conversation was that nobody mentioned “Scotch Argus” – it
was just assumed that that was why we were all here. Further along we met a couple
who said that they hadn’t seen any Scotch Argus either except a few in the
grass – but that they would never have seen them there if two men hadn’t shown
them were to look.
So we reached the Smardalegill Viaduct without much optimism. But before
thinking about butterflies we should remark on what an impressive structure the
viaduct is, a curving arc of fourteen arches, 30 metres above Scandal Beck. It
was built in 1861 mainly to carry coke to the furnaces of West Cumberland. The line closed
in 1962, with the viaduct falling into disrepair and being on the verge of being
demolished, when in 1992 it was acquired and restored by the Northern Viaduct Trust.
Smardalegill Viaduct
Now for the Scotch Argus. I saw a butterfly on the grass by the path but by the time
I had called Ruth over it had flown away. Was it a Scotch Argus? I’m far
from an expert but I am 90% sure it was. Having seen this one, I was confident that
we’d see more – but we never did. We wandered about for some time, without much
enthusiasm in my case because peering into the grass doesn’t seem to be in the spirit of
butterflying. It was still too gloomy for butterflies – and for me.
On the word of the two men I can accept that Scotch Argus are still here but I
have some naïve questions about this. Do we know if the numbers of Scotch Argus
here are rising or falling? Is this isolated colony large enough for a
viable future? These butterflies have not flown over fifty miles from
Scotland to live here – they must be a remnant of populations that extended over
that land in the past. Why are the Scotch Argus here and not in nearby dales that
look similar to me? I understand that the food plant of Scotch
Argus is purple and blue moor-grass. Is Smardale particularly blessed with such
moor-grass? Is climate change making a difference? I assume that
Scotch Argus are really more at home further north, in a climate slightly colder
and wetter. Is the Scotch Argus being encouraged north, where there is no suitable
habitat for it for some miles?
Regardless of the butterflies, it should be acknowledged that this is great
walking country – the railway track is too easy-going perhaps but there are good
grassy paths over the moors. There are, on less cloudy days, fine views in all
directions, to the North Pennines, Wild Boar Fell and the Howgills.
We eventually gave up our search for Scotch Argus and walked on to cross Smardale Bridge again and then
pass Friar Bottom Farm (Friar’s Bottom Farm on the map – a subtle difference) to return
to Newbiggin. Inevitably, the sun was shining by then. At least we could enjoy all the
buddleia butterflies back home.
[1]. This
website reports that a colony of Scotch Argus has become established at Lea Green,
Bastow Wood, near Grassington. Obviously, a colony cannot just arise from nothing.
Perhaps someone brought Scotch Argus here? Perhaps they were here
all along, unnoticed?
Date: August 18th 2025
Start: NY704053, Newbiggin-on-Lune (Map: OL19)
Route: NW, E through Brownber – old railway line – NE,
E, SW – Smardale Bridge – E, NE over Smardale Fell, N – Smardale – W,
SW on old railway line – Smardalegill Viaduct – SW – Smardale Bridge – W,
SW – Newbiggin-on-Lune
Distance: 8 miles; Ascent: 140 metres
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© John Self, 2018-
Top photo: Rainbow over Kisdon in Swaledale;
Bottom photo: Ullswater